Thom Browne
Oh Thom Browne, what will you think of next? From shrunken proportions to overtly in-your-face, the avant-garde menswear designer (whose Black Fleece line with Brooks Brothers is considered a more approachable take) is making the most of his recent cash infusion from Cross Company of Japan. Witness his fall show. Shown in the luxurious spaces of the Park Avenue Armory, a disquieting silence befell much of the show prior to its start. Anxious? Queasy? Why, pray tell? Perhaps it was a sign of what was to come. “I wanted to make people think,” Browne said rather cryptically. “Working with the [venue] space, I just needed things to be bigger, more masculine.” To wit, the hulking dimensions were approached head-on in all directions—with width and length of greatest note. A gym bag that could easily have fit a front-row guest, industrial strength (and sized) zippers, signature cropped trousers cut wide across the front, jackets elongated but with a smattering of size-appropriate coats, Browne’s signature red, white and blue elements were omnipresent. Raccoon tails as decorative fringe, meanwhile, added the very dose of irony that Browne so perfectly provides.
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