Michelle Williams in an Alexander McQueen SS12 dress at the Tokyo premiere of My Week with Marilyn
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Alexander McQueen - Runway Review
Exploring the idea of a “soft futurism,” Sarah Burton elevated her Alexander McQueen collection ever so carefully, beautifully melding the structure the brand has always maintained with oversized blooms of organza and feather that lent a more feminine bent. Lee McQueen, Burton’s late boss, shared a love for nature—but while he explored its dark facets, she has strived toward the light. Armed with a mirrored Plexiglas visor and heel-less boots, the dramatic collection opened with an army of nipped-waisted, full-skirted coats with Mongolian fur collars. From there, the craftsmanship dazzled more and more so. The show was magical in its exaggerated forms: circular, 3-D purple-hued camellias, a massive, pastel-pink dress beautifully balanced by eight tiers of hundreds of hand-pressed chiffon tucks.
The McQueen design team custom designed high-shine reflective silver visors for each model in the show to complement the sculpted platinum wigs.
Alexander McQueen finale. A bevy of gorgeous underwater sea urchin shapes.
Alexander McQueen - Runway Review
Hyper-femininity. The ocean bed, sea shells, anemones and the crests of waves. “This is a collection about excess,” said Sarah Burton. “An exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.” It’s hard to believe this is only Burton’s third collection she’s designed on her own; you honestly can’t make up a better fairytale spun from a moment so tragic.
Models were poured into gowns constructed of encrustations of beading and mother-of-pearl, microscopic pleats that were massaged backstage and copious amounts of dominatrix leather breathtakingly cast into the folds of ruffles and miles of lace. Burton also explored the thematic elements of aquatic—but unlike her former boss, her viewpoint was significantly lighter and more classic. It goes without saying this was at the caliber of a pure couture collection; rich and extraordinary as it was, it was also diplomatic in the sense that any woman who finds herself drawn to this collection will find it as receptive as ever.
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