As Dior looks to firm up its new designer, studio director Bill Gaytten is unenviably left with the task of maintaining the house from soup to nuts. For spring, he turned out a collection that will register with the Dior faithful—building upon the principals of the brand, including the round-shouldered New Look Bar jacket (to which he added a peplum), the full skirts, elegant cocktail dresses and safe, yet dramatic, evening gowns. All the pieces were there for a complete wardrobe that won’t ensure landing on any worst-dressed lists.
Yet, despite the lack of surprises, the real fashion statement here seemed to be one of stability. The volume was controlled beneath that jacket, the rose-printed dresses whispered, not shouted, femininity and the lacy, lingerie-influenced floor length dresses reeked of restraint. But while one or two seasons of calm confidence will pass undetected, at the end of the day this is still the House of Dior—and that “D” seems a little lonely without some drama of the fashion ilk.