Backstage at Emilio Pucci
...a daily dose of love notes from Americana Manhasset to you.
Runway Review: Emilio Pucci Fall 2011
by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi
Peter Dundas is clearly on a roll at the house of Pucci, a destination he’s seemed destined for and has really been catapulted by. For fall he worked the Florentine house’s iconic prints by way of a Tyrolean fairy tale—think busty Swiss misses in tight, corseted dresses, embroidered dirndl skirts and velvet knickers—but infused plenty of chic daywear via tailored riding pants in loden suede, feminine lace blouses and perfect layering jacquard jackets, at times corseted. But while the separates were plenty good, as was the color palette of robin’s egg blue and golden yellow, Dundas did not relinquish his abilities at mean dressmaking. His finale of stunners, including a sexy green dress with embellished asymmetrical sleeve and burnout velvet gown encrusted in cabochon crystals were the stuff red carpet dreams are made of. In a word: smoldering.Runway Review: Emilio Pucci
by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi
The hippie look is one that is well traveled this season, having made its way from New York to London and now omnipresent in Milan. Nowhere was that more evident than at Pucci, where Peter Dundas showed restrained references to Yves Saint Laurent’s peasant and safari themes but made them all his own. A Pucci show is always a fast-paced show—models race down the runway in revealing gowns, fabulously fetishistic footwear and near-perfect hair. Channeling island life, as a proper Pucci girl should, the prints were inspired by the blues and whites of Greek Cycladic architecture (he’s currently building a home there). In fact, many of the fabrics—cottons, silks and liquid jerseys—had been sent to India to be bleached, re-dyed and batik-ed to give a more lived-in, sun-and-sea-drenched appearance. The lace-up safari shirt, a classic, was reworked on a laced-front gown in a fresh blue-on-white print and repurposed for a laced-front minidress richly embroidered with blue on white, as well as dresses with plunging backs, edged in tiny, trembling pompons. Coupled with the roundabout key items for a full-on glam wardrobe—the skinny pant, plissé tie-dyed T-shirt and Pucci printed bikini—it just all worked.
Emilio Pucci
Bravo to Peter Dundas for delivering an outstanding collection ripe with elements harking back to the brand’s boho heritage. Rich color and luxe fabrications were teamed with more than a dose of high-octane glamour. Like many of his peers, Dundas, for whom the party never ends, channeled the 70s—but the decadent, feel-good parts to profess his love for a sexy woman’s body. Call it hippy-redux if you will. Inspired by the works of Gustav Klimt and his fellow Vienna Secessionists, variations on silhouettes saw dresses and skirts swoop to ankle-skimming proportions or retreat to the thigh. Jackets came as elongated pea coats, a luxe aviator or immaculately cut cropped shapes teamed with beautifully tailored high-waisted flared pants. Fluffy feather and fox-fur coats added volume over plunge-front cocktail dresses, shawl-fringed bustiers and thigh-high beaded minidresses. For evening, there were flowing empire-line chiffons with deep slashed fronts awash in a rich palette with Art Nouveau overtones of purple, grenadine and midnight blue offset with chartreuse, peacock shades, molten gold and a grounding of black.
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