Jodie Foster and Giorgio Armani at the Armani Privé Spring 2011 Haute Couture show
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Runway Review: Giorgio Armani
by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi
The Tuareg tribesmen of Saharan North Africa inspired an elegant exploration of ethnicity as Giorgio Armani worked almost entirely in midnight blue, as deep as the night sky over the sand dunes, and based on the indigo robes and veils favored by these nomads of the desert. This was, effectively, in direct opposition to the Crayola-friendly season Milanese designers have sent out. The models, turbaned in silk, knotted and sashed to one side, paraded against a video backdrop of endless shifting sands, as the wind moaned.
The central Africa inspiration was where the slim trousers, their shape gently tapered to a narrow ankle, came from. The silhouette was long and lean, with skirt hems flaring out slightly below the knee and short jackets layered over longer tunics and loosely, tapered trousers. The models carried jeweled saddle bags, their arms embellished with grosgrain, jeweled cuffs and their necks adorned with large, stone amulets, framed in fabric, fine braid or metal. No extreme juxtapositions of proportions here; the overall effect was dark, moody and mysterious, enhanced by crystals and sequins that, once unveiled, revealed signature strapless columns and high-waisted, long gowns.
Giorgio Armani
According to the show notes, “The New Chic” was how Giorgio Armani defined his fall collection—apropos, given the designer’s emphasis on wearability that continues to be his mantra in designing elegant and sophisticated looks (while two finale gowns are sure-fire Oscar winners). Short but demure, Armani marches to his own tune—for fall focusing on such key pieces as ovoid cabans, a draped chinchilla coat, square-shouldered cloaklike jackets, cape tops, A-line LBDs, culottes (part of suit), bubble skirts, backless cocktail dresses, one-sleeved dresses, soft A-line skirts with flirty hems and shapely velvet gowns. The color palette was deeply sober and in true Armani fashion: everything from onyx and bottle green to coral red and bright orange, all cut in luxurious deep plush velvet, patent leather, chalk-stripe suiting, angora, silk, shaved and knitted rabbit and chinchilla. Stand out pieces, however, featured a crisp black-and-white color combo, comprised of A-line black skirts and dresses, along with a strapless white cocktail dress that draped in architectural wonder. Not only were textures emphasized, but prints were as well. A cloud-like silhouette print, diffused speckles and crystallized Rennie Mackintosh roses were just a few of the choices the Armani woman will have for fall, coupled with such detail elements as wide foldover and cape collars, shirring across an off-the-shoulder neckline and twinkling marcasite embroideries. Rounding out the collection were shapely wedge and pointed stiletto pumps, along with signature handheld crescent bags, small clutch bags, fringed berets and velvet wraps for those chilly autumn nights.
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