Marc Jacobs at the opening of the “Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs: The Exhibition” at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs.
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“Fan Club”
Presenting “Fan Club,” an art deco burlesque fantasy à la Busby Berkeley shot in honor of the upcoming “Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs” exhibit at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
Louis Vuitton - Runway Review
Inspired by the tale of two Belle Epoque archrival divas, Marc Jacobs declared, “No girl will carry a bag this season.” Instead, each model had her own personal porter—both of whom emerged from one jaw-dropping full-scale locomotive cast in navy blue with the Louis Vuitton name emblazoned on the tank in gold lettering. Set in a temporary LV train station at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, the blasting steam was a precursor to the beautiful clothes that were to come. One by one, elegant ladies emerged in crumpled ponyskin hats and sky-high, ballet toe Mary Janes. While the bags were absolutely fantastic—sure to be a big hit come fall—the clothes held their own. And rightly so.
The classic silhouette was an elongated tri-layered look—coats worn over skirts worn over cropped pants. Lovely. There was a focus on textured fabrications, i.e. the jumbo mosaic beading, a floral ponyhair “plaid” on coats and skirts and holographic tweeds in trippy shades of green and purple. The bejeweled buttons on jackets and the cuffs of pants, meanwhile, were actually elaborate brooches.
At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs showed a gorgeous croc and leather Mary-Jane inspired shoe with a ballet toe.
Marc Jacobs Runway Review
Gigantic furry and floppy hats. A Pilgrim aesthetic by way of Dr. Seuss (courtesy Stephen Jones). Tons of layered textures sculpted on the body like art. And sparkly buckle shoes. Funny how a Web site that documents the denizens of elder New York could be the starting point for a major fashion collection. But at Marc Jacobs Monday night, it was precisely that.
Thinking of a fake winter melancholy, Jacobs devised a set comprised of decaying grottoes designed hand-in-hand by the artist Rachel Feinstein and Stefan Beckman made of paper-thin wood. As the models emerged from several staircases of varying heights, walking to “Who Will Buy (This Wonderful Morning)?” their stoles, squarish sweaters, egg-shaped dresses and fitted brocade jumpers looked part Edwardian, part uniform. The fabrics, however, were what stole the show: beautiful brocades, tweeds bonded to leather, tulle infused with sequins…all set on a somber color palette accented by major pops of bright color.
WSJ Fashion Innovator Award
Last night Katie Grand, seen here with close friend Marc Jacobs, was honored by the Wall Street Journal with its WSJ Fashion Innovator Award. Grand, the editor of Love Magazine who also styles the Vuitton shows, wore a full Spring 2012 Louis Vuitton look, including dress, shoes and heels.
Louis Vuitton - Runway Review
All eyes might have been on Kate Moss’ show-closing strut, but everyone was thinking: is this Marc Jacobs’s last Louis Vuitton show? The sweet spectacle didn’t break new ground, but it laid some pretty beautiful groundwork should Jacobs head to Dior (as has been the talk). Given the collection, one can only imagine: lace collars, vanilla tulle and sugared almond-colored dresses emerged on models off a dreamy setting boasting a carousel of 48 horses. Each looked adorable and light (cotton candy came to mind) and twinkled in pastel skirt suits, drop yoked skirts and princess-line dresses festooned with layers of tulle or a sheep’s meadow worth of sparkling appliquéd rosettes. Inciting the innocent ingénue aesthetic were floaty puff-ball and drop-waist skirts and dresses, with ‘50s inspired chignons and balletic headbands keeping the models’ neat hair in place.
For spring, Marc Jacobs delivered a futuristic take on cowgirl boots with a design that’s part-smoky PVC, part-mirrored metallic leather. Love the metal heels!
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