
On the runways, gothic themes and bold colors mixed with elegance and sophistication proving Fall 2011 to be anything but playing it safe.

On the runways, gothic themes and bold colors mixed with elegance and sophistication proving Fall 2011 to be anything but playing it safe.
Not quite content to let go the tribal, fringe-meets-animal print, vibe he’s so masterfully tweaked over the years, Roberto Cavalli took his hippie girl vibe up multiple notches, infused in a boatload of feathers and layered on the party girl eye makeup. While the results seemed pretty monochromatic, or one dimensional, the Cavalli girl will lust after the gold, copper and bronze metallics in jackets and short dresses. This was a collection of verbs—embellished, slashed, sliced, fringed, beaded and spliced—poured on lamé, Lurex, and panne velvet. The brocade jackets had plenty of appeal, as did the long-sleeved blouses and pleated chiffon dresses in the signature animal prints.
Staged in a white tent constructed behind the colossal Corinthian columns of Milan’s neo-classical Arch of Peace, dating back to 1807, it seemed fitting that a venue built in honor of Napoleon would play host to Roberto Cavalli’s 40th anniversary show. In turn, the flamboyant Florentine designer delivered a fabulous frenzy of fringing, snakeskin, leopard-print and sequined tiger stripes.
With a front row that seemed suited to slip backstage and right into these wares—Leona Lewis, Taylor Swift and Heidi Klum—long leather fringes dangled from rock ‘n’ roll-cowgirl jeans while cropped Western jackets and waistcoats, lace-up, thigh-high boots and rawhide shoulder bags decorated with tooth, talon and horn completed the look. Natalia Vodianova opened the 40-look show in silver-sequined, sheer tulle, swimsuit dress that set the tone for the Apache/Cherokee-style pieces to come. Tie-dyed fringing trimmed satin bias-cut skirts, split to the thigh, while open-work crochet dresses revealed as much flesh as a bikini. In essence, skin was everywhere—and I don’t mean on the models as python. Pink, python-print boho-gowns were decorated with ostrich feathers, and jet-black, snakeskin jeans dazzled with silver and crystal embroidery.
With a fall show that marked 40 years of celebratory splendor in his designs—completely with crumbling palazzo backdrop—Roberto Cavalli proved why he is the king of baroque ‘n’ roll in the fashion business. One part hippy-luxe, one part rock ‘n’ roll, Cavalli, whose first shop opened in St. Tropez four decades ago and focused on appliqué denim, went multi-layered and long for fall, showcasing a medley of offbeat items layered together (think doublet jackets and vests, billowing harem pants, sheer dresses, lean frockcoats, throw-on wrap coats, skinny jeans, flowing handkerchief-hem dresses and skirts, biker jackets and flowing red-carpet gowns). “For men who need the beauty of women to complete themselves,” his show notes read. His gorgeous and wealthy clientele will fall head over heels in love. Cast in gorgeous colors like midnight blue, antiqued gold, vivid red, not to mention shades of grey, winter white and pale blush, the tactile and decorative fabrics mixed in wild abandon with an anything-goes aesthetic that somehow worked with fox, broadtail and lynx, combined with studded velvet, sequins and sheers, cut velvet, shearling and pleated chiffon morphed into faded fresco and tapestry effects with a menagerie of skin patterns. Meanwhile, he simultaneously pushed his eye for detail for fall, focusing on caviar beading, gilded embroidery and antiqued gold braid.