Backstage at Emilio Pucci


“It’s the ideal of the iconic American cowboy gone multi-cultural,” explained Thakoon Panichgul moments before the start of his spring show. “The color story came from India, inspired by the spice market—but with a cowboy flair.” Audacious and colorful prints—and plenty of them—have shown their faces on the runway, and nowhere did they manipulate themselves in more different forms than at Thakoon. Always known for vibrant prints, these seemed particularly vivid against the gilded Plaza Hotel ballroom. Much of it came in the form of a blown-up paisley (in the loose tops) or tiger lily florals (shown on edged jackets and cropped pants)—cast in sunset orange, an explosion of pink and an elegant emerald. Thakoon is no stranger to prints, so this collection, while definitely a bit out there, was still within the designer’s form. Yes, they were pretty—but this time exotic seemed an apropos adjective, too.



In one word: Haiti. Donna Karan’s enamorment for the beleaguered nation is no secret; she spends time there, raises money for specific charities and is a voice for the people. For spring, Karan turned to those people and the unity they represent—in relentless form, mind you—turning out colors that, for better or for worse, equated to a muted, brown-and-bone color palette. The prints came one after another—punctuated only by the slivers of stunning evening gowns in purple and citrus green. This was tribal times 10. Naturally, as with all of Donna’s collections, there will be plenty of pieces to choose from when separated one by one. Among the highlights were a white stretch cotton canvas dress and trademark undulating skirt that looked chic paired with an organza shirt. At the end of the day, however, this collection is not for the faint of heart.

Alexander Wang has built a business—and a mighty successful one at that—by designing cutting-edge streetwear that, even at its most feminine points, is still authentic to his nitty-gritty style. Athleticism is a theme Wang has explored in the past, but for spring he centered on motocross and BMX racing—infused with a Hawaiian flair. Yes, you read that right. That translated into a crazy combination of ombré floral prints, laser-cut mesh bombers, trademark mini skirts and short shorts and an emphasis on utilitarian details (zippers, pockets, mesh). The finale of laser-cut leathers was superb. Much of the clothing was essentially second skin, so only the toned and tall need apply. The accessories were equally aggressive. Pointy-toed pumps were fashioned from tropical fish skins while the quirky continued with floral bike helmuts and duffels that could have doubled for golf club bags.