An explosion of chainmail at YSL

Runway Review: Fendi

by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi

In one word: the shirtwaist. In the midst of a true seventies revival, Karl Lagerfeld opened the second day of Milan Fashion Week with a highly sophisticated combination of casual and couture focused on that perennial fashion staple. It was luxe minimalism at its best. Cast in a palette of crisp whites, salmons, powder blues, reds and jade, it was a stellar show that should prove to be one of Fendi’s most wearable and well-received collections in recent memory. Today’s modern version features soft lantern sleeves and is cinched at the waist with a colorful leather belt. Floral and geometric prints were thoroughly present, but none made the same impression as did a “cappuccino” print, resembling coffee stains on a table cloth. Simply put, it was a fresh, loose and feminine collection that utilized ingenious fabric manipulation like rubber-stamped organza, nylon seersucker and woven leather: trousers cropped at the ankle, soft tops over knee-length skirts, and a gorgeous array of tunic dresses with a marked waistline and a demure below-the-knee hemline.

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Runway Review: Burberry Prorsum

by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi

Protect. Explore. Inspire. Those three words are the touchstones on which Christopher Bailey built his “Heritage Biker” spring Burberry Prorsum collection. “Built?” you say. No other word quite sums the myriad of textures, fabrics and cuts that went into this dizzyingly dazzle of a collection. Shown at Burberry’s Horseferry Road headquarters in London and simultaneously beamed worldwide, not only was a significant chunk of the collection available for preorder immediately following the show, but the bags, in their shades of neon lime and turquoise, were an instant jolt of caffeine.

Not only was this show tightly edited, it was just plain tight. Witness the multiple variations on skintight leather biker leggings (get to the gym now) that were complemented by some ultrashort shirred or leopard-spot dresses. At the core Burberry will always remain an outerwear mainstay—and this collection certainly did not disappoint. Spring is all about a toughened up, macho female with a softer side. The outerwear zoomed (pardon the pun) in jackets with padded sleeves or leather-protective arms that was both fast paced and in your face. While the shoes are another story—they’ll take some time getting acclimated to—the impact of ultratight motorbike pants was a complete about turn from the highly tailored clothes, and in particular the gorgeous fall collection, that Bailey has worked so hard to achieve. The short trenches, made all the more desirable by their studs and spikes, were instant hits and are sure to be sell-outs (did you see the trench with the double row of buttons sewn on?). And for those women not quite ready to take a walk on that wild a side, well, there’s always a quilted jacket in sparkling silver leather.

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Runway Review: Rodarte

by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi

The redwoods of Northern California served as the touchpoint for Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s spring Rodarte collection. Evident in the knotty, grain-effect silks and leathers, the samurai-style paneling was a direct result of the fusion of West Coast and Japan. How about the Ming Dynasty, reminiscent in the blue and white floral prints that were sculpted just so to look like vases? Simply put: this was a gorgeous collection of pieces that real women will be able to translate into their current wardrobes. Spring, fortunately, isn’t just about a red carpet moment. There are plenty of leather jackets, skirts, tunics and wide-leg cropped pants to choose from. But at the end of the day, no one does a dress better than Rodarte—and these were the best of the week.

Runway Review: Ralph Lauren

by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi

In typical Ralph Lauren, one can’t help but drink the Kool-Aid. It’s just plain too good. It seems every season Ralph delivers his best collection ever—and Spring 2011, you guessed it, was no different. He certainly has a lot to celebrate—a new men’s flagship and a new women’s-only mansion just unveiled—but perhaps in refuge from the city life he sought the confines of his RRL ranch out west for inspiration. This was the cowgirl at her finest. Ralph’s no stranger to prairie romance, having practically written the dictionary definition; for spring that meant plenty of fringed leathers, whipstitched jackets and flared pants, all done in a very Ralph palette of bone, ivory, and tawny brown suede. But what would a country romp be without a cameo in the city? That’s where lacy Victorian blouses, paired with tailored pants and linen cuffed shorts, came together timelessly. Together with crocheted dresses, which looked fabulous paired with a number of stellar jackets, Ralph once again proved his rock-solid worth, puffed sleeves and all.

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Runway Review: Oscar de la Renta

by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi

With Sarah Jessica Parker sitting in the front row, Oscar de la Renta seemed to send a clear message to both his friend and client: let’s dance. Cue the flamenco soundtrack as Karlie Kloss emerged in a silk linen jonquil silk organza flower embroidered coat with flowers bursting from her yellow ostrich tote that set the mood for what was to be a spectacular Spanish-inspired roadtrip infused with florals. The sun clearly doesn’t set where de la Renta lives—evident by the 3-D peonies in delicious pinks, lime silk faille black leaf embroidered coat dress and a stunning ivory gazar gown with carnation appliqué. Olé! Hints of Balenciaga were evident throughout the collection, as noticed in a double-face ivory coat and that was thoroughly modernized thanks to a hand-painted extra-large check effect. To counterbalance all the over-the-top fabulousness, de la Renta peppered in trim tweed pieces ever so subtlety, not to mention some delightful shibori plaid dresses and separates. But from the moment “Only You” came cranking onto the speakers, you knew he had you at hello. The ball gowns were simply mesmerizing. Flounced, bustled and spangled, these dresses each warranted their own red carpet moment. Big ruffles! Big boleros!

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Runway Review: Tory Burch

by Americana Guest Blogger, Jim Shi

“I just want to make women feel and look beautiful.” Tory Burch should make that her new official motto, as the spring collection she presented offered easy daywear, sportswear vibes. Each look conjured to mind a fashion jet-setting fashion plate, be it Marisa Berenson or Ali MacGraw. Cast in a fittingly intimate manner, where all the clothes were tangible and to be sweet, Burch gets kudos for keeping things simple. My favorite is the red-and-navy striped blazer-trouser combo that, in fact, was made from a pair of Burch’s father’s pants turned into a suit!

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