Rodolfo Paglialunga’s freshman year at Jil Sander is getting off to a good start. For his uniform-savvy lineup—cast in gorgeous shades of cobalt, cornflower and navy and a nod to the somber colors seen at the Marc Jacobs show—the ode to androgyny excelled in fabric manipulation. Shirts featured light starching; shorts rode ultralow and the layering was spot-on. Save for a geometric bar pattern that broke up the interior venue—inspired by Swiss photographer Anniemarie Schwarzenbach—the collection remained pure and unaltered.
Tomas Maier celebrated the freedom of movement with his spring Bottega Veneta collection. Using everyday materials like denim and, of course, gingham, the textured collection featured plenty of sequins, beads and other layers of embellishment like sheer mesh and tulle. Inspired by a woman “who has beautiful posture, moves her arms gracefully and has a dancer’s walk,” the noticeably relaxed collection opened with luxe leggings, jogging pants and—surprise, surprise—a sweatsuit with shorts. Suede dominated much of the collection and came in everything from boyish trousers to a duster coat. There was also a tailored denim pantsuit and a gold Lurex vest. As for dresses, the waist-emphasizing designs were plenty feminine: more ginghams, dirdnls and beautifully Swarovski crystal appliques.
Giorgio Armani opened his spring show by screening Oscar-winning filmmaker Paolo Sorrentino’s art short “Sand,” which formed the backdrop of the serene show. The colors of sand, of course, have long been an Armani mainstay—and, in this collection, they really shined. Cast in everything from a pearly beige to a powdery gray, the texture rich lineup felt modern but unfussy. The fusion of masculine and feminine dressing—another Armani aesthetic—was highlighted through the bevy of pantsuit incarnations. Fluid, silky and seasonless, the fabrics featured patterns of waves and simple striations—softly tapered with a body-skimming waist.
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