Comfortable luxury. We’ve come to expect nothing but the best from Hermès, and fall did not disappoint. The impeccably cut outerwear made for a soothing and sublime ending to a month of fashion shows. Clean, sleek and not one single embellishment, it was the epitome of luxury. The relaxed silhouettes made for distinctly masculine moment, what with the oversized coats worn over long vests paired with straight-legged or slightly slouchy trousers. Dresses and long skirts, meanwhile, came fastened with delicate thin crocodile belts. The house’s trademark essentials—fur, leather and crocodile—was used discreetly, be it via the color palette or the functionality of the garments themselves. Save for a few printed dresses in lighter-than-air silk, the pieces all carried a luxe weight to them—although simple in construction, they were clearly substantial.
Nicolas Ghesquière, bravo. In his proposal for a new chapter at Louis Vuitton, the revered Frenchman took a cautious, if not safe, approach with his first collection. “Does not every designer want to create something timeless?” he wrote in his show notes. This was a collection that focused on separates and their wearability; there was no pomp and circumstance, nothing that made one gawk. In his delivery of fluid, effortless garments, Ghesquière’s inspiration of Parisian streetwear held a distinct Sixties flare: witness the knee length A-line skirts, raised waistlines and tightly sweatered torsos with geometrically printed yokes, abbreviated leather black coats and Chelsea boots—accessorized with scaled-down monogrammed suitcase-shaped bags that swung from the models’ shoulders. Fabric manipulation and texture play—both Ghesquière specialties—were not lost in this collection. Two exemplary moments included slit skirts made of an almost patent leather fused with tweeds and a metal studded floral print. There was a lot of leather and a lot of metal—but not in an in-your-face kind of way. Ghesquière created a new balance between the leather goods and ready-to-wear ateliers, asking one to create the other and vice versa—perhaps in a bid to eventually raise the profile and distribution of its clothing business.
Danielle is Americana Manhasset's Personal Shopper! Find her favorite item du jour and follow her fabulous globetrotter life in the P.S. section!